If I were to describe an outdoor rock climbing trip to Kentucky in 3 words they would be: exhaustion, pizza, and an absolute riot. Here is a complete guide on how to embark on an epic outdoor rock climbing adventure in Kentucky, USA
When you think of the American state of Kentucky, images of horse racing, farmland, moonshine and fried chicken often come to mind. Which is why it is surprising to find out that the state is home to some of the world’s best outdoor rock climbing.
Boasting 29,000 acres, the Red River Gorge in East-Central Kentucky, has been rated in the top 10 for the world’s greatest climbing destinations. With climbing rated for beginners all the way up to world-class pro climbers, the Red River Gorge hosts amazing adventures for anyone willing to hang out on cliff-faces high in the air.
A rock climbing trip to Kentucky is a dream trip for many climbers. It has also become a unique and epic experience for any adventurers looking to get their blood pumping outside in nature.
I became obsessed with the sport of rock climbing at age fourteen and eventually got to go on three separate trips to Kentucky to live out my best dirtbag rock climber dreams. On these trips, I met experienced climbers who had been climbing longer than I had been alive and others that were trying rock climbing for the first time ever. But there was a common denominator amongst them all… they were having fun!
There is something special about spending a full day out in nature then returning to a night of friends, beer and pizza. After leaving a trip like this the adventure satisfaction is high!
So, whether you are a seasoned climber or a complete beginner who is looking for a rad outdoor adventure, this guide is for you!
In this guide, you will learn absolutely everything you need to know for planning your first outdoor rock climbing trip to Kentucky. There are also tons of tips specifically for complete beginners. Happy reading!
Everything You Need to Know for an Outdoor Rock Climbing Adventure in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge
Climbing for Everyone – Where to Start
The outdoor climbing region in Kentucky is known as the Red River Gorge. Home to literally thousands of different climbs, you could spend months here and still not run out of things to try.
The gorge is broken into several different climbing spots that consist of clusters of climbs. The two main climbing areas that are privately owned and made available to climbers are Muir Valley and the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (popularly known as PMRP).
Muir Valley
Having been to both of these main spots, my absolute favourite, and the most popular, is Muir Valley. Muir Valley is perfect for all levels, it is easy to find and access, and has spectacular park management. Every single individual climbing route is labelled with its name and grade on the wall. You get the ease and convenience of an indoor rock climbing gym, with all the awesomeness of climbing outside.
Muir Valley was owned by an amazing couple who were responsible for making Muir Valley as accessible as it is out of the goodness of their heart. Recently it was passed over to a non-profit climbing association known as Friends of Muir Valley.
The valley is broken down into several different “crags” (climbing wall sections) so you get an excellent change of scenery as you explore each one. Along with the world-class climbing, Muir Valley is also home to some brilliant hiking. The trails to get to and from the different crags are wonderful and there are lots of little side trails to explore.
I could go on and on about this place forever.
If you are visiting Kentucky’s climbing region for the first time, then I definitely recommend you start here.
PMRP
PMRP is great too but I would recommend this spot for the more experienced outdoor climbers. Or if you aren’t afraid of a little inconvenience.
For example, when I explored PMRP we almost couldn’t get back out of the parking lot due to the unkept road. It was harder to navigate the different climbing sections and none of the climbs are labelled so like most outdoor climbing we had to consult the guide book a ton to figure it out.
The climbs in PMRP are also harder in their graded level of difficulty.
Being more seasoned climbers though, we didn’t mind this at all. Therefore, it totally depends what you are looking for. Unless you are heading to the gorge with specific climbs in mind to conquer, then Muir Valley is definitely the place to start. And if you are more adventurous and have enough time then venture out to these other places.
The Essential Guidebooks for an Awesome Trip
Ok so now that I’ve given you my whole take on where to go, lets talk about guidebooks. Guidebooks are pretty essential for getting around the different climbing spots, even in Muir Valley. Having at least one guide book in your climbing group is pretty much essential, especially as a beginner.
These books go heavy into detail on the different climbing spots, the different sections within each climbing spot, and info on all the individual climbs you can try. They discuss the grade, descriptions of where the climbing route is on the wall, and advice for the equipment needed. There are a few different books depending on where you plan to climb:
- Red River Gorge North
- Red River Gorge South: This one covers the most popular spots like Muir Valley and PMRP.
- The Red: This is a comprehensive guide that covers both the North and South parts of the gorge.
- Muir Valley Pocket Guide: A more in-depth guide for this specific spot
You can choose which guidebook simply by purchasing the one that has the climbing spots you wish to visit.
When to Go Outdoor Rock Climbing in Kentucky
The best times to go climbing in Red River Gorge are in the fall (September – November) and spring season (March – May).
Some choose to visit during other times of the year, but you will be facing some adverse weather temperatures and conditions by doing so. It’ll be quite cold in the winter months from December – February. It will also be extremely hot from June – August.
Where to Stay in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge
A huge part of a climbing trip to Kentucky is about the fun and shenanigans you get up to after a long day of climbing. Each time I went I stayed in a different type of accommodation and it was great each time.
Hostel Stay
We stayed in the coolest hostel I’ve ever been to on my first trip to Kentucky. It is called the Skybridge Station. It is actually a restaurant/bar that has a couple rooms and a lounge area above the restaurant. Aside from being in a happening place, what made it so fun was the general vibe that comes from being with a bunch of rock climbers in a hostel environment (drinking games, dart board competitions, climbing on the side of buildings, etc.). Since being there, several hostels have opened up that specifically cater to rock climbers and I have heard so many great things about them.
Cabin Rental
This is a great option if you are going with a group. The second time I visited Kentucky I went with a group of about 15 people. We rented two cabins right beside each other and similar shenanigans to the hostel occurred. Of course, if you are looking to meet new people then this doesn’t suit well, but it is a great and somewhat affordable option for groups.
Camping
The most affordable of the options is camping. Its crazy cheap, we paid like $2/night to stay at The Land of Arches campground. We didn’t have to make a reservation, we just showed up and pitched a tent. The most popular camping offered in the area is at the famous Miguel’s Pizza (more on this below), which is packed with climbers and a really cool spot if you are looking to goof off and chill with others. Miguel’s also offers cabins and rooms, but no matter what type of accommodation this place fills up fast!
Where to Eat After an Outdoor Climbing Day in Kentucky
There are two main restaurants that are most popular amongst climbers in the gorge and they are:
- Miguel’s Pizza – An INSTITUTION! Miguel’s was established in 1984 and now provides climbers with mouth-watering (and famous) pizza, a hub for after climb hangouts (this place gets so packed), and a bunch of merch to make your climbing adventure official. Pulling up to this place for the first time I could see huge groups of people eating pizza, slack-lining, and camping out. It’s just super fun and a trip to the gorge would not be complete without a visit here.
- Red River Rockhouse – “The Rockhouse” is known simply for their amazing food. Their burgers satisfied many intense cravings after a whole day of exertion. A warning though for peanut allergies, the last time I was there a few years ago they were cooking all their food in peanut oil, so definitely check on this before ordering.
Other Adventures to Do in the Area
Like I said before, what makes for such a great trip is spending your evenings simply enjoying each other’s company and goofing around at Miguel’s, your hostel, etc. However, if you are interested in exploring the area there are a few cool spots you can check out.
- The Natural Bridge – This is just what it sounds like, a bridge… that is naturally made by mother earth. It is quite lovely to visit and most people that go like it.
- Underground Zip lining – About a two hour drive away from the gorge is a really cool place called Louisville Mega Cavern that offers zip lining in underground caves. We wore head lamps and got to zip through big caves underground. This made for an exciting day trip from the gorge.
- Kayaking – There is a tour company that offers kayaking and canoeing days in the gorge.
Helpful Tips for Beginners
As I mentioned before, the Red River Gorge is amazing even for first timers looking for fun outdoor adventures to try. You can hire a guide that will take care of everything! They know the area well, they have all the equipment, and they set up all the climbs for you so you don’t have to be trained or experienced in any way.
The guides are also usually fun people with several stories and adventures under their belt. We booked our guide for the first half of the day, and he actually ended up staying to climb with us for the rest of the day unpaid “just as friends.” They are usually just die-hard climbers that love to show people what makes rock climbing so great.
Also, the gorge is beautiful! If you are not interested in climbing for the entire day, there are plenty of beautiful spots to just go hiking around. One of the women I went with on our first trip would spend most of the day hiking around to explore the beauty of Muir Valley and she enjoyed the trip as much as the rest of us.
Final Thoughts on Rock Climbing Adventures in Kentucky
There you have it guys! A complete guide to making rock climbing in Kentucky, USA your next great adventure. If you have anything to add or want to know more, comment down below. Alsoooooo, if you want to show me some support click that subscribe button!
Happy Adventuring!
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